Since evidently is going to take few months for Hiro to figure out how to ship paints outside UK, my question to USA members is... what is a good 2k clear coat alternative sold in the USA? If it is automotive grade then, what is the mixing ratio, clear coat vs hardener/activator vs thinner to get it thru an airbrush? I do have a 0.5 needle on one of my airbrushes. If you don't want to post your secrets on-line, send me an e-mail please. Your expertise on this subject is greatly appreciated. I have a couple of models in the making that I'll need to clear coat. :-) [Reply]
You can take any 2k clear with no fear (PPG, DuPont etc.), USA has one of the best, if not the best chemical industries and you can not miss with it. As for the mix ration, it is a matter of personal experience, for example, most of manufaxturers recomand 2 part clear 1 part hardener and 10-30% of thinner...by my personal experience, even 30% is not enough...allthou it depend on how you apply coats.
To make long story short, take clear, medium hardener (not quick type as it tend to make orange peal more easy) and mix it 2 part clear 1 part hardener and 1-2 parts thinner, for first few coats 1 part thinner and then for the rest add a bit more thinner, just be carefull not to over do it with the amount of clear on the model because it is very easy to do so. [Reply]
Originally Posted by sjelic:
You can take any 2k clear with no fear (PPG, DuPont etc.), USA has one of the best, if not the best chemical industries and you can not miss with it. As for the mix ration, it is a matter of personal experience, for example, most of manufaxturers recomand 2 part clear 1 part hardener and 10-30% of thinner...by my personal experience, even 30% is not enough...allthou it depend on how you apply coats.
To make long story short, take clear, medium hardener (not quick type as it tend to make orange peal more easy) and mix it 2 part clear 1 part hardener and 1-2 parts thinner, for first few coats 1 part thinner and then for the rest add a bit more thinner, just be carefull not to over do it with the amount of clear on the model because it is very easy to do so.
I have checked on-line and those companies sell gallons and quarts of the clear color and hardeners. I'm afraid of having a qt of hardener that can get hard before I finish using all of it, waisting money. Anyone you know sells smaller quatities like for us modelers? [Reply]
sjelic... I have another question now that you bring orange peel... if you do have orange peel on your first clear coat application, can you sand down (like with a 6k grid) and the next clear coat the finish will be ok? It does or not opaque the second clear coat? [Reply]
Originally Posted by Zonic2001:
sjelic... I have another question now that you bring orange peel... if you do have orange peel on your first clear coat application, can you sand down (like with a 6k grid) and the next clear coat the finish will be ok? It does or not opaque the second clear coat?
You can sometimes go straight back over the clear with another coat and the new coat will slightly reactivate the first layer and lessen the orange peel effect, allowing it to re-flow out. However if it's really quite bad then yes, you can sand back the first coat removing the orange peel effect and then re-coat over the sanded back finish which will remove the haze you created when you sanded it and make it clear again. Just don't use too rough a sandpaper, because if you put deeper scratches in the clear they are not as easy to cover with more clear.. [Reply]
It's hard to find small quantities of 2K, but you can buy off-brand 2K for much cheaper than duPont or PPG. These are not necessarily inferior, 2K's. Often times they are just branded to be cheaper, but chemically, are the same. I got a quart with hardener for less than 20 dollars US and has lasted for a few years so long as you keep them tightly closed and away from sunlight.
You can visit an automotive paint store and ask for them, or you can visit your regular parts store, such as AutoZone or O'Reillys, and ask there. The DIY parts stores don't keep it out front but usually keep them in the back so you need to ask for them. (Incidently, you can ask for light bulbs for your car the same way and pick up a single bulb for less than a dollar instead of paying for a pair at a much higher price.) When you consider the cost of the smaller quantity of 2K from Hiroboy and the shipping, you might find that the larger quantity from your local parts store, even if some does go to waste, it might still be a good value.
I use Value-Pro P370-400 HS Clearcoat with Value-Pro T315-3511 Hardener. Follow the mix ratio recommended for both products and then thin with twice as much acetone and use a hi-flow nozzle on the airbrush. Never had problems at these ratios, but be sure to test first.
I've had no ill effects after sanding down orange peal even using only 1800 grit. At least that's been my experience. Just be careful not to rub all they way to the paint. If you do, stop, spray on some more clear and repeat if you have to. [Reply]
Originally Posted by stevenoble:
You can sometimes go straight back over the clear with another coat and the new coat will slightly reactivate the first layer and lessen the orange peel effect, allowing it to re-flow out. However if it's really quite bad then yes, you can sand back the first coat removing the orange peel effect and then re-coat over the sanded back finish which will remove the haze you created when you sanded it and make it clear again. Just don't use too rough a sandpaper, because if you put deeper scratches in the clear they are not as easy to cover with more clear..
nah the orange peel is not that bad. a clear coat on top will fix it then. Thanks my friend! [Reply]
CFArias... thanks for all the info... product name, mixing ratios and the recommendation of using acetone. So you use acetone instead of thinner? Great information my friend. Just what I needed. [Reply]
Originally Posted by CFarias:
It's hard to find small quantities of 2K, but you can buy off-brand 2K for much cheaper than duPont or PPG. These are not necessarily inferior, 2K's. Often times they are just branded to be cheaper, but chemically, are the same. I got a quart with hardener for less than 20 dollars US and has lasted for a few years so long as you keep them tightly closed and away from sunlight.
You can visit an automotive paint store and ask for them, or you can visit your regular parts store, such as AutoZone or O'Reillys, and ask there. The DIY parts stores don't keep it out front but usually keep them in the back so you need to ask for them. (Incidently, you can ask for light bulbs for your car the same way and pick up a single bulb for less than a dollar instead of paying for a pair at a much higher price.) When you consider the cost of the smaller quantity of 2K from Hiroboy and the shipping, you might find that the larger quantity from your local parts store, even if some does go to waste, it might still be a good value.
I use Value-Pro P370-400 HS Clearcoat with Value-Pro T315-3511 Hardener. Follow the mix ratio recommended for both products and then thin with twice as much acetone and use a hi-flow nozzle on the airbrush. Never had problems at these ratios, but be sure to test first.
I've had no ill effects after sanding down orange peal even using only 1800 grit. At least that's been my experience. Just be careful not to rub all they way to the paint. If you do, stop, spray on some more clear and repeat if you have to.
Do you buy the Value-Pro products on-line or from your local store? I search on-line and I get sites with the technical information of Value-Pro products but the clearcoat is a different number and doesn't take me to a page were I can buy this product. :-) [Reply]
Acetone works well for me. I also use the Dupli-Color Paint Shop Pro system and they thin with acetone, so it simplifies my painting system -- not having to use lacquer thinner or special reducer, for example. However, any reducer or lacquer thinner should work well, I've just found acetone to be more forgiving and provides a smoother finish.
I bought the Value-Pro from a local auto paint supplier. I may have remembered the product numbers wrong. I'll give you an update when I can later today. I've had similar experience trying to find the stuff online.
A hi-flow is just an expression for the large nozzle on your airbrush. Most of the time there are three nozzles for your airbrush -- a fine tip, a medium (general purpose), and a heavy tip (hi-flow). Most airbrushes come with the medium tip and this will work, but for car bodies I like to use the hi-flow. It is more forgiving so you don't have to be as precise with pressures and mixing ratios. They can put up to 4 times more paint and primer onto a model than a medium per pass of the airbrush, but it's still a pretty thin coat. Again, you don't need the hi-flow, but I would recommend it. [Reply]
Sorry, but I did get the product numbers wrong for the clearcoat and hardener. For the clearcoat it's ValuPRO P390-4000 and for the hardener it's ValuPRO P315-3511. [Reply]
Originally Posted by CFarias:
Acetone works well for me. I also use the Dupli-Color Paint Shop Pro system and they thin with acetone, so it simplifies my painting system -- not having to use lacquer thinner or special reducer, for example. However, any reducer or lacquer thinner should work well, I've just found acetone to be more forgiving and provides a smoother finish.
I bought the Value-Pro from a local auto paint supplier. I may have remembered the product numbers wrong. I'll give you an update when I can later today. I've had similar experience trying to find the stuff online.
A hi-flow is just an expression for the large nozzle on your airbrush. Most of the time there are three nozzles for your airbrush -- a fine tip, a medium (general purpose), and a heavy tip (hi-flow). Most airbrushes come with the medium tip and this will work, but for car bodies I like to use the hi-flow. It is more forgiving so you don't have to be as precise with pressures and mixing ratios. They can put up to 4 times more paint and primer onto a model than a medium per pass of the airbrush, but it's still a pretty thin coat. Again, you don't need the hi-flow, but I would recommend it.
Yes, that's the 0.5mm needle. I got that in my airbrush to be able to pass the 2k clear. Thanks again for the info. [Reply]
Nobody carries Value-Pro products in town nor I can find them on-line. That takes care of that! When I ask the local auto supplier and tell them that I'm going to airbrush them, they all back out and don't recommend any of their products. Threy go crazier when I say that I can delute them to pass the airbrush using acetone or thinner!!!
Any other suggestions??????????????????????????????????????? ???????? Brand name, mixing ratios (that will help me tremendously), etc, of a product I can get on-line??????????? Need help!!!!!!!!!! [Reply]
