I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block. [Reply]
oil pan to block 18ft lbs, oil pan to rear cover 106 in lbs, the rear of the pan is to be flush and not protrude beyond the engine block or transmission mounting surfaces...
your leak after the transmission repair was most likely the result of a jack used on the oil pan...the pan should have been removed and checked for this...did you ?
If the oil pan is used as a jacking point this will occur.. [Reply]
Originally Posted by j cAT:
oil pan to block 18ft lbs, oil pan to rear cover 106 in lbs, the rear of the pan is to be flush and not protrude beyond the engine block or transmission mounting surfaces...
your leak after the transmission repair was most likely the result of a jack used on the oil pan...the pan should have been removed and checked for this...did you ?
If the oil pan is used as a jacking point this will occur..
I removed and replaced the oil pan gasket. Used a new felpro. Leak was at the rear side above oil filter. Not leaking there anymore, but is still leaking at left rear corner between the motor and tranny. I can still see it leaking there with a uv light and dye in oil. as to the...pan is to be flush...It is flush with the tranny. [Reply]
Did you ever resolve your oil pan leak in the rear bell-housing area? I'm having the same exact problem after replacing the oil pan gasket on my 5.3l Yukon. I torqued all of the oil-pan to engine bolts to 89 in-lb, including the two longer bolts at the bell-housing end (Haynes Manual was not very clear). Any help would be appreciated? [Reply]
Originally Posted by Stonecold_HTM:
Did you ever resolve your oil pan leak in the rear bell-housing area? I'm having the same exact problem after replacing the oil pan gasket on my 5.3l Yukon. I torqued all of the oil-pan to engine bolts to 89 in-lb, including the two longer bolts at the bell-housing end (Haynes Manual was not very clear). Any help would be appreciated?
the previous posts clearly indicate the torque values,for a replacement of oil pan ...
are you trying to fix a leak just by re-torquing the oil pan? [Reply]
Originally Posted by j cAT:
the previous posts clearly indicate the torque values,for a replacement of oil pan ...
are you trying to fix a leak just by re-torquing the oil pan?
I'm just trying to confirm the torque spec for the two longer bolts (6mm, 10.9, ~8in long) located at the bell-housing end of the pan; Haynes appears to say 18 ft-lbs, but its not really clear and it conflicts with what was posted earlier. I still have a leak and don't want to break the bolts. I was carful to make sure that the felpro gasket was aligned properly and that the pan was flush against the bell housing prior to tightening. It may be that I have a rear-seal leak, but it's hard to tell for sure. [Reply]
Originally Posted by Stonecold_HTM:
I'm just trying to confirm the torque spec for the two longer bolts (6mm, 10.9, ~8in long) located at the bell-housing end of the pan; Haynes appears to say 18 ft-lbs, but its not really clear and it conflicts with what was posted earlier. I still have a leak and don't want to break the bolts. I was carful to make sure that the felpro gasket was aligned properly and that the pan was flush against the bell housing prior to tightening. It may be that I have a rear-seal leak, but it's hard to tell for sure.
There were a few of these that had "porous" castings around the rear seal housing, the fix was to liberally apply the gm grey permatex stuff. on it and put it back on, bad part is have to pull the tranny to do it, but it you replace the rear seal anyway you have to anyhow, so something to check anyway.
This only effected a very limited few, just remember the service bulletin when I worked at the dealer. It still could be your seal though too. If its on a lift, these things are cake to pull the trannies on, they can be a royal pita on the ground though....Don't know your working conditions. Most of them you don't even have to mess with the exhaust, the other stuff shouldn't be tough. The best thing for the bell housing bolts is to acquire a 3 to 4 foot 1/2 extension and use an impact and impact wobble, when you put em back in its fine too with the long extension, but I woud recommend checking tightness by hand too though. Obviously start the bolts by hand first... [Reply]
Originally Posted by Stonecold_HTM:
I'm just trying to confirm the torque spec for the two longer bolts (6mm, 10.9, ~8in long) located at the bell-housing end of the pan; Haynes appears to say 18 ft-lbs, but its not really clear and it conflicts with what was posted earlier. I still have a leak and don't want to break the bolts. I was carful to make sure that the felpro gasket was aligned properly and that the pan was flush against the bell housing prior to tightening. It may be that I have a rear-seal leak, but it's hard to tell for sure.
at the end of the pan the pan / bellhousing bolts are 106in lbs or about 8 ft lbs...
the rear main seal maybe leaking and this could be from the main bearings being worn..what is the mileage and engine condition ? ever have coolant get into the crankcase ?
also the oil maybe falling down on the back of the engine looking like the rear main is leaking..check the PCV for hose /gasket damage..too much crankcase pressure will cause oil to leak out.. [Reply]
Originally Posted by jyount:
There were a few of these that had "porous" castings around the rear seal housing, the fix was to liberally apply the gm grey permatex stuff. on it and put it back on, bad part is have to pull the tranny to do it, but it you replace the rear seal anyway you have to anyhow, so something to check anyway.
This only effected a very limited few, just remember the service bulletin when I worked at the dealer. It still could be your seal though too. If its on a lift, these things are cake to pull the trannies on, they can be a royal pita on the ground though....Don't know your working conditions. Most of them you don't even have to mess with the exhaust, the other stuff shouldn't be tough. The best thing for the bell housing bolts is to acquire a 3 to 4 foot 1/2 extension and use an impact and impact wobble, when you put em back in its fine too with the long extension, but I woud recommend checking tightness by hand too though. Obviously start the bolts by hand first...
Thanks for the tips. I'll see if I can borrow a friends lift; don't want to wrestle with the pulling the trany working from the the ground. [Reply]
Originally Posted by j cAT:
at the end of the pan the pan / bellhousing bolts are 106in lbs or about 8 ft lbs...
the rear main seal maybe leaking and this could be from the main bearings being worn..what is the mileage and engine condition ? ever have coolant get into the crankcase ?
also the oil maybe falling down on the back of the engine looking like the rear main is leaking..check the PCV for hose /gasket damage..too much crankcase pressure will cause oil to leak out..
Thanks for the info. Never had coolant in the crankcase. 150K, 2001 Yukon [Reply]
I have replaced the op gasket 2 times. First was my fault. I pulled out the baffle in the oil pan to thoroughly clean it, i put everything back together and I still had 4 bolts and the baffle sitting there. Had some good choice words. LOL now. The 2nd one was replaced but I still have a slight leak, only after I do an oil change. My pan is now leaking and I was told it may be the rear cover. I have done the op gasket and the oil cooler cap. I still have oil in the bell-housing and on the drivers side more than the passenger side. I cannot figure out where it is coming from. I cannot see anything seeping from the rear main seal. But every 2-3 days the drivers side bolt on the tranny has a full drop on it, along with some leaking from the center hole in the tranny housing. But the oil filter is dry and clean. I have 155,000 miles and have changed out the intake this past summer. I looked for anything that I might have forgot to tighten and all is good. I can tell u that it is not leaking from the top of the motor. It is either the above the oil filter or in the tranny housing like the rear cover. is there any what to prove 100% that the rear cover is either good or leaking?
I know that there is a SB for this rear cover on 03-07? models.